Estate Jewelry

Photo Credit: WingedLion

Sterling Silver & 14K Gold Honeycomb Pendant by WingedLion Jewelers

Buy It Now Price: $705

Pros:

-This beautiful honeycomb pendant with honeybee is handcrafted by WingedLion jewelers using sterling silver, 14 karat gold, cabochon-cut citrines and round-cut, white sapphire accent stones.

-It measures 47 mm (1.85 inches) tall (including the bail) by 28 mm (1.10 inches) wide.

-WingedLion Jewelers is run by the husband and wife team of Sergey Zhiboedov and Natalia Moroz. Natalia, an accomplished printmaker and illustrator, designs some of their jewelry while her husband Sergey both designs and hand casts pieces in their Charlotte, North Carolina workshop. WingedLion’s Tumblr page not only details selected products, but also shows behind-the-scenes glimpses of how they are created.

-This contemporary honeycomb pendant exhibits both incredible attention to detail and superb workmanship, two factors completely lacking from most mass-produced, chain-store jewelry.

-If $695 is too rich for your wallet, there are other, similar versions of this pendant available for less money. For example, a sterling silver honeycomb pendant (without the gold honeybee) set with amber instead of citrine is only $285. At that price, a WingedLion honeycomb pendant would hardly be more expensive than some pieces of higher-end costume jewelry.

-The design work on WingedLion jewelry is absolutely superb. The forms, materials and execution are all top notch. I’ll never understand why anyone would spend hundreds of dollars on generic, mass-produced jewelry when these handmade masterpieces are available for almost the same amount of money.

-The artists have also created ring versions of this honeycomb theme if you aren’t interested in pendants. The adventurous can purchase an extraordinary sterling silver, 14 karat gold and citrine honeycomb ring for just $470, while the high rollers out there can splurge on a magnificent sterling silver and 14 karat gold honeybee ring set with a stunning 1 carat yellow sapphire for $1,560.

-This WingedLion honeycomb pendant is a classic example of a future antique – a contemporary item of excellent quality that will undoubtedly season into an elegant and desirable antique over time. Because of this, I believe that the $695 price for this honeycomb pendant is easily justified.

Earrings By WingedLion Jewelers for Sale on Etsy

(These are affiliate links for which I may be compensated)

GRAPES earrings silver with Chrysoprase

 

$365 USD

THISTLE BRANCH silver stud post earrings with Amethyst

 

$120 USD

THISTLE BRANCH silver stud post earrings with Alexandrites

 

$190 USD

GRAPES earrings silver and bronze with Chrysoprase Ready to ship

 

$355 USD

POMEGRANATE garnet bronze & silver earrings Ready to ship

 

$330 USD

POMEGRANATE garnet 14k yellow gold and silver earrings

 

$1000 USD

GERTRUDE silver earrings with London Blue Topaz - Ready to ship

 

$325 USD

RAVENS Celtic silver earrings with English lock

 

$420 USD

GRAPES earrings silver & 14k gold with Peridot Ready to ship

 

$540 USD

Blooming Thistle silver earrings with Amethysts

 

$295 USD

Cons:

-Although it is difficult to estimate with precision, the intrinsic value of this honeycomb pendant is undoubtedly well below its asking price. I estimate that the silver is worth less than $20, the gold no more than $100, the citrines perhaps $15 and the white sapphires just a few dollars. The total value of materials in this pendant max out at around $140. But this is a completely normal state of affairs when purchasing contemporary jewelry. After all, the artist has to buy all the materials, assemble them and still be able to make a profit!

-This piece of jewelry is not a one-of-a-kind, unique item. Instead, WingedLion creates this jewelry on demand for their customers. I don’t see this as very large drawback, though. Most jewelry is churned out in overseas factories by the tens (or hundreds) of thousands. In contrast, WingedLion has probably only handcrafted a few dozen (or at worst, a couple hundred) of these pendants.

-If you are approaching this purchase strictly from an investment standpoint, you will have to wait for this honeycomb pendant to age into a vintage piece (approximately 15 to 20 years) before its value will begin to rise on the secondary market. Of course, in the meantime you (or your significant other) will get to wear an absolutely gorgeous handmade pendant!

Read more fascinating Antique Sage spotlight posts here.

-or-

Read in-depth Antique Sage investment guides here.

Photo Credit: gemtrade

1940s Diamond, Ruby and 14K White and Pink Gold Retro Ring

Buy It Now Price: $499 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Here is a lovely diamond, ruby and 14 karat white and pink gold Retro ring straight out of the 1940s.  It would be easy to envision this vintage ring sitting on the finger of some fashionable 1940s Hollywood starlet!

-This pink gold Retro ring weighs a hefty 8 grams (25.7 troy ounces) and fits a size 5 finger.  It could easily be resized to fit a smaller or larger finger by any competent jeweler for a nominal fee.

-Retro jewelry came into fashion in the late 1930s and stayed in vogue through the 1950s.  It was characterized by a big, bold look that was emphasized with relatively low-value gemstones, such as amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, synthetic rubies and synthetic sapphires.  Retro jewelry also commonly employed multi-colored gold – especially pink gold – arranged in flashy scrolls, whimsical flutes and stylized florals.

-According to the seller, this pink gold Retro ring is set with a 0.31 carat, H-color and VS clarity white diamond.  And while it isn’t possible to be absolutely sure from the photo, I strongly suspect that this diamond is a transition cut.  Transition-cut diamonds were a hybrid of the old European cut and modern round brilliant cut that was popular between the 1920s and the 1940s.

-With an estimated net gold content of 4.6 grams (0.148 troy ounces) and the spot price of gold around $1,320, this pink gold Retro rink has a melt value of about $195.  The diamond is more valuable however, and would have a conservative liquidation value of perhaps $200 to $300, depending on its exact grading.  This gives a total estimated scrap value for the piece of $395 to $495, which is very close to the buy-it-now price of $499.

-This pink gold Retro ring is selling for a price that is stunningly close to its intrinsic value.  Antique jewelry with a high intrinsic value in relation to its asking price is very desirable, as it limits downside risk.  It is unusual to find an antique ring mounted with such a large diamond for such a low price these days.

-The ring is set with 6 channel-set rubies that are almost certainly Verneuil flame-fusion synthetics.  While they have no intrinsic value, these synthetic rubies are period appropriate and add to the collector’s value of the piece.

-Verneuil synthetic gemstones are quite common in Retro jewelry because World War II disrupted global trade routes.  This conflict cut off the European and American jewelry markets from supplies of many natural mined stones – especially those originating from Southeast Asia, like rubies and sapphires.  As a result, cheap and plentiful flame-fusion synthetics were widely used as substitutes for their scarce natural counterparts throughout the 1940s.

-This pink gold Retro ring really embodies the stylistic zeitgeist of the 1940s.  Its boldly sculpted form, two-tone gold and eye-catching gemstones all epitomize vintage jewelry from the World War II era.  Because of its wonderful style and high intrinsic value, I feel that this ring is a great investment, with little potential downside risk.

Cons:

-This rose gold Retro ring exhibits mediocre to poor goldwork around the channel-set rubies.  This is a little bit surprising, considering the goldwork on the rest of the ring looks pretty good.  But I should note that most jewelers consider channel-setting stones to be notoriously difficult.  In this case, I think a good jeweler (not a mall-kiosk jeweler!) could clean up the channel-settings for a relatively modest fee.

-A good rule of thumb is that any white diamond purchased online will be over-graded by one clarity and one color grade.  This is not a reflection of the honesty or integrity of the seller of this pink gold Retro ring, but just a good guideline when shopping for antique diamond jewelry online.  Even if we allow for the possibility that the transition-cut diamond set in this vintage ring is over-graded, I feel the gem would still wholesale for at least $200 on a bad day.

Read more fascinating Antique Sage spotlight posts here.

-or-

Read in-depth Antique Sage investment guides here.

Photo Credit: KensingtonAntiques

18 Karat Gold & Diamond Edwardian Cufflinks, Circa 1919

Asking Price: $1,250 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Here is a marvelous pair of heavy, 18 karat yellow gold and old European cut diamond Edwardian cufflinks that were crafted in Birmingham, England.

-They measure 0.69 inches (17 mm) long by 0.5 inches (13 mm) wide and weigh a substantial 13 grams (0.418 troy ounces).

-These Edwardian cufflinks are superbly constructed from very heavy, solid 18 karat gold.  Robust construction is one of the primary indicators of quality in antique jewelry.

-These antique cufflinks are fully hallmarked, which is a very desirable trait!  They were made in Birmingham in 1919 by B.H. Joseph & Co., a very well-regarded jewelry and silverware fabricator that operated at 20 Frederick Street, Birmingham from the 1860s until 1929.

-Birmingham, England was world-famous for the number and quality of “smalls”, or small silver and gold accessories, that were produced there.

-These Edwardian cufflinks are set with 12 old European cut diamonds that have an estimated total weight of 0.72 carats.  Assuming an average diamond value of $250 per carat, these cufflinks are set with $180 worth of diamonds, give or take.

-These solid 18 karat gold cufflinks have a simple, but classic design that is both attractive and functional.  This means that even though they are almost 100 years old, a man can still wear these cufflinks to any occasion that requires a suit without feeling out-dated.

-The thing I like most about these Edwardian cufflinks is their relatively high intrinsic value.  With gold currently trading at $1,268, these cufflinks contain $397 worth of gold.  Combine that with the value of the old European cut diamonds and the total intrinsic value of the pair is approximately $577 – nearly half the asking price of $1,250.  Buying antique jewelry that has a high intrinsic value relative to its purchase price significantly reduces your investment risk.

-Regardless of whether you are looking to buy a pair of cufflinks to wear or as an investment, these solid 18 karat gold and diamond Edwardian cufflinks represent good value for your money at an asking price of only $1,250.

Cons:

-Although they were created in 1919 at the very end of the Edwardian period, these cufflinks have significant Victorian elements in their design.  Under most circumstances, the mixing of two separate design languages – Edwardian and Victorian in this case – reduces the desirability of a piece.  However, I believe the simplicity of these cufflinks renders them aesthetically timeless.  This also explains why they were created in this style in 1919, well after the Victorian age had passed.  In any case, even though these cufflinks do no embody the typical delicacy of Edwardian jewelry, they are still quite desirable.

-The seller claims that the diamonds in these Edwardian cufflinks grade G to J in color and VS1 to VS2 in clarity.  However, it is a good working assumption that any diamond you buy online from anyone other than a very reputable, dedicated diamond seller will be over-graded by one clarity and one color grade.  Although I have no reason to believe this particular seller is being dishonest or misleading in any way, it is simply a good rule of thumb to follow when buying diamond jewelry online.  Even assuming the color and clarity of these diamonds are one grade lower than stated, the total value of the cufflinks is not significantly impacted because antique cut diamonds are not judged by the same aesthetic standards as modern-cut diamonds.

Photo Credit: alifballangrud

Artisan Carved Contemporary Nephrite Jade Pendant

Asking Price: $425 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Here is a magnificent, artisan hand-carved, contemporary nephrite jade pendant that sensuously portrays ginkgo biloba leaves and fruit.  It also comes with a smaller, celadon-colored jadeite jade bead as an accent piece.

-This contemporary nephrite jade pendant measures 6.1 cm (2.4 inches) tall by 3.8 cm (1.5 inches) wide by 1.35 cm (0.53 inches) thick.  It weighs 2.9 ounces, or approximately 82 grams.

-This contemporary nephrite jade pendant was carved from a marvelous slab of high quality green nephrite jade mined from the Mount Ogden region in British Columbia, Canada.  British Columbia is the world’s most important source of gem quality nephrite jade, with perhaps 75% of global production.

-Nephrite jade originating from North America is almost always untreated, which is very positive.

-The quality of the nephrite jade used in this piece is excellent, with a pleasing, even color and good translucency.  It is approaching the quality of the very finest British Columbian nephrite jade available in the market today, which is referred to as Polar Jade.

-The workmanship of this contemporary nephrite jade pendant is absolutely phenomenal.  Jade is notorious for the great skill and tremendous patience necessary to successfully create a fine piece.  This piece of jade has been superlatively carved, as evidenced by the delicate veining on the gingko leaves and the subtle undercutting of the forms in relief.

-A lot of jade available in the Western market today is carved in Chinese workshops and exported.  Most of these modern Chinese jades are stiff and uninspired pieces of poor to mediocre quality that use recycled traditional motifs.  Of course, there are some truly exquisite Chinese jade carvings being produced today, but their prices are astronomically high and they are almost always reserved for the East Asian market.

-The artist who created this masterpiece is a self-taught jade carver and lapidarist from Oregon named Alif Ballangrud.  I find that some of the finest contemporary art available today, like this piece, is created by non-traditionally trained artists who work in a variety of unusual mediums.

-Carved jade and rough jade are both interesting investment plays on the future growth of the Chinese economy.  The Chinese have a tremendous cultural affinity for jade because it represents virtue, loyalty and perfection in traditional Chinese culture.  As the Chinese economy has expanded, pricing for high quality jade has reached dizzying heights there.  In fact, I am certain that if this contemporary nephrite jade pendant was for sale in a jewelry shop in Hong Kong, Shanghai or Beijing, the price probably wouldn’t be a penny less than $1,000.

-This is one of those slam-dunk, no-brainer investments.  The artist is pricing this contemporary nephrite jade pendant to cover the cost of his materials and labor, but this masterpiece is worth much, much more.  I don’t care whether you choose to throw it in a safety deposit box, wear it, give it to your spouse as a gift or display it in a curio cabinet.  Just pay the nice man his $425 and take this treasure home!  I am almost certain that you will double, triple or quadruple your money within a decade.

Cons:

-Nephrite jade is one of the two types of true jade, the other being jadeite jade.  All else being equal, the very best quality jadeite jade, known as Imperial jade, is considerably more valuable than the finest nephrite jade.  However, Imperial jadeite jade is so expensive that it is invariably purchased, carved and sold exclusively in the Chinese market at this point.

-A critic could argue that the sunken fields of this contemporary nephrite jade pendant have been left “unfinished” by the artist.  I disagree, as I believe that the rough background was intentionally left in place in order to provide visual contrast with the exquisitely refined gingko leaves and berry.  In any case, it highlights the massive amount of effort that went into this artwork; each square millimeter of that background had to be tediously, yet carefully, excavated using a small drill bit repeatedly bored into the surface of the stone.